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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.